Around Chandni Chowk, your usual journey begins at the Red Fort, walking through its grand Lahori Gate before stepping into the buzz of Chandni Chowk Bazaar. For many folks who frequent the street, its food—especially breakfast—is taken in some regard. The lane called Paranthe Wali Gali is the precursor of this renown.

Duck through Paranthe Wali Gali, famed since the late 19th century for delivering hearty parathas to Delhiites, and sample cooling faloodas, chaats, and fragrant jalebis.

Browse beyond the main bazaar to uncover Urdu Bazaar’s rare books in shops on their last legs, Khari Baoli’s spice empire, and Mehar Chand & Sons’ aromatic teas.

History and faith converge along the lanes: Gauri Shankar Temple, Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib, Sri Digambar Jain Lal Mandir (with its pigeon rescue centre), and dozens of mosques coexist in close proximity.

Architectural treasures peek through mukhtas (havelis) such as Mirza Ghalib’s erstwhile home and the restored Haveli Dharampura; their hidden courtyards hint at a forgotten colonial aristocracy.